Tuesday 11 August 2015

Ode to David Fife- Part 3

By Gary Fife

The following is the final segment of a poem written by Gary Fife, the Great-Great Grandson of David Fife.


PART II – REVIVAL OF RED FIFE WHEAT

Section I – Saved from Extinction

In 1988, Sharon Rempel initiated the Heritage Wheat Project [1]
She believed heritage wheat had been the subject of neglect
Of all the heritage wheats that were embraced
Red Fife thrashed them all in milling and baking qualities and taste
Rempel had a vision that one day Red Fife would be re-commercialized
Organic farmers, artisan bakers, pastry chefs and consumers would crave this grain so prized
The Red Fife Wheat Project does not want GMO
Rempel believes it is not the way to go

In 2001, Marc Loiselle, began growing Red Fife on his organic Saskatchewan farm [2]
The landrace wheat quickly adapted to the soil and could do no harm
Demand for Red Fife quickly spread across the land
Artisan bakers and discerning pastry chefs developed it as their own brand
Loiselle describes Red Fife as unexpectedly rich with a slightly herby and spicy flavour
With aromas of anise and fennel and a nutty taste to savour

In 1989, eco-gastronomists founded the International Slow Food Movement [3]
An alternative to the tediousness of fast food, it was a major improvement
Slow Food promotes food that is good, clean and fair
Their Ark of Taste is a project to catalog heritage foods to share
Only the best tasting endangered products make it onto the Ark
Foods at risk of extinction receive a check mark
The Slow Food Presidium Project would save foods from extinction
Promoting traditional forgotten foods provides a distinction
The Presidium promotes the work of the artisan
By cultivating consumer demand

In 2003, Slow Food Canada’s Vancouver Island Chapter [4]
Determined Red Fife should flourish hereafter
Red Fife was nominated to the Ark of Taste
Fears of extinction were laid to waste
Red Fife is Canada’s first and only Presidium
Between extinction and salvation, Red Fife found a happy medium
Red Fife was re-introduced to artisan bakers
And is favoured by celebrated bread makers

Artisan bakers bake bread in small batches
In brick ovens with secure door latches
Hand formed loaves provide a personal touch
Fresh baked aromas are loved so much
Stone hearth ovens produce a reddish brown crust
A richness of flavour with a taste so robust
Good for gluten-sensitive diets and so nutritious
Red Fife bread is simply delicious


Section II – Revival

For several years, Jamie Kennedy has served Red Fife bread [5]
Red Fife flour is a staple in his kitchens including Gilead
For a delicious Red Fife pancake
There are two good options to partake
Globe Bistro or the Windsor Arms Hotel [6],[7]
Many Toronto chefs have found a new place to dwell
Edulis Restaurant, Ursa, Woodlot and Keriwa Cafe [8],[9],[10]
Serve Red Fife bread, scones, pasta or bannock in an impressive display
For fresh baked bread of course
Go straight to the source
St John’s Bakery offers Red Fife in Loaf and Peasant size [11]
At the Evergreen Brickworks Farmers’ Market, they have limited supplies

Cliff Leir, a renowned chef on Vancouver Island [12]
Developed his first bakery and decided to expand
He sold Wildfire Organic Bakery and Cafe
And built Fol Epi Organic Bread and Pastry
In 2003, Slow Food Canada’s Ark of Taste Project
Approached Cliff Leir with a stated object
Working together, they brought Red Fife back into production
In 2004, he took Red Fife bread to Italy for its Slow Food introduction

In Italy, he met Marc Loiselle who produced and sold him the Red Fife grain
The goal of the Terra Madre conference in Italy was one of mutual gain
Cliff and Marc were part of the “Red Fife Community”
Terra Madre provided a superb opportunity
Cliff believes food community relationships could have a rebirth
Providing a better understanding of the larger relationship with food and earth
Cliff built a silo exclusively for Red Fife at Fol Epi which is French for “wild wheatstalk”
As a miller and a baker, he not only talks the talk, he walks the walk

On Vancouver Island, Bruce and Leslie Stewart operate True Grain Bread
In 2008, they moved from Ontario to their new homestead
They continue the tradition of old-world style baking
Hand-scaling and carefully forming each loaf of bread they are making
True Grain is pleased that Red Fife was rescued from obscurity
They chose it for its unique flavour and its non-hybridized purity
True Grain slowly mills Organic Red Fife Grain at low temperatures to preserve the flavour
And partnering with Vancouver Island Farmers to foster the 100 mile diet is something they favour

South of Madoc, Ontario, down on the farm
Patricia Hastings works her special charm
Her Organic Red Fife Wheat is much in demand
With her stone mill on site, she creates her particular brand
For Evelyn’s Crackers and Chef Jamie Kennedy
Other customers include St. John’s Bakery
Patricia is popular when the Royals are on the scene
Red Fife flour appeals to Prince Charles, Will and Kate and even the Queen

Toronto-based Grainstorm has a catchy marketing tagline
“Bake like it’s 1869”
They use only ancient grains and Red Fife Wheat
To produce baking mixes with real nourishing food and not too sweet
In both taste and nutrition, modern wheat is inferior
Red Fife has not been genetically modified and is thus superior
Red Fife Muffin and Loaf Mix is the base recipe
Baking bread and muffins and cakes is easy

These forgoing artisans are dedicated and diverse
Representing a portion of the ever expanding Red Fife universe
The Red Fife Community grows and expands
All across Canada, the United States and other lands
Red Fife supporters are connected to this heritage wheat
Red Fife consumers are supportive and eager for the next treat to eat
New and different recipes support the revival
There is little question of Red Fife Wheat survival


Conclusion

David Fife developed Red Fife Wheat
Widely acclaimed as no mean feat
As you sow, so shall you reap
As the harvest is done, it is no big leap
Red Fife increased the land under cultivation
Red Fife played a key role in developing a nation
Development of towns and migration West
Rail lines through the Rockies put engineers to the test
All of the development was easy to sustain
Canada thrived due to an abundance of grain

“Granary to the world”, Canada did proudly proclaim
Red Fife Wheat was responsible for Canada’s nickname
The story of Red Fife Wheat is the story of Canada itself
Supplanted by Marquis, Red Fife was put on the shelf
All but forgotten in Canadian history
Relegated to a distant memory
“Those who don’t know history are doomed”
Repeating history isn’t pleasant it’s assumed

Red Fife Wheat is hardy and robust
Its traits include immunity to wheat rust
Through many centuries it remained genetically pure
Its unmodified nature means it will endure
David Fife and Red Fife Wheat are closely entwined
Canadian history has not been so kind
Red Fife’s history is one of survival
Red Fife will live on due to its revival

“Granary of the world”, proclaimed the Canadian Government
In 1903, the Department of the Interior ran the advertisement
U.S. settlers journeyed north to Canada at a rapid pace
Wheat farming promised vast wealth in this new place
In 1877, David Fife died and became a distant memory
In 1888, Jane Fife died and joined him in the Fife Cemetery
In the 19th century, Red Fife Wheat solved the problem of fungus and rot
In the 20th century, David Fife became the man Canada forgot

For three decades after the passing of David Fife
Red Fife Wheat’s increased production and cultivation supplied the staff of life
Canada evolved into a growing nation
Red Fife Wheat provided the foundation
Red Fife Wheat is revered
David Fife all but disappeared
Looking back one hundred years at this seeming paradox
There is no rhyme or reason,  no thinking outside the box

With the revival of Red Fife Wheat, it begs the question
Where is David Fife’s place in the history session
His experimental farm led to the “Granary of the World” proclamation
A commensurate gift or tribute to this man is worthy of consideration
In this era of internet and cell phones and all that is new
Children teach adults a thing or two
Historians and educators had best move with due haste
Or children will teach them about David Fife and the Red Fife taste


Epilogue

Queen Victoria Day marks the beginning of the planting season
There is a rhyme and reason
To remember David Fife on this planters day
Red Fife seed benefited Canada in every way
David Fife and his wife developed Red Fife
A few seeds of grain created a better way of life
1842 was a very good year
Give a cheer
Halleluiah
David Fife, we are glad we knew ya

 Come celebrate David Fife's contribution to the harvest season at David Fife Day- Sunday, August 30 at Lang Pioneer Village Museum!


[1] Rempel, Sharon, notes on her website.  http://www.grassrootsolutions.com/
[2] Loiselle, Marc, notes on his website.  http://www.grassrootsolutions.com/ 
[3] Slow Food Website.  http://www.slowfood.com/
[4] Slow Food Canada website.  http://www.slowfood.ca/ 
[8] Edulis Restaurant.  http://edulisrestaurant.com/
[12] Cliff Leir and Fol Epi.  http://www.farine-mc.com/2012/06/meet-baker-cliff-leir.html



Gary Fife is the Great-Great Grandson of David Fife, founder of Red Fife Wheat, and a guest writer for the Museum. Gary grew up on the Fife Family Farm. With a background in corporate finance and entrepreneurial management, Gary shares David Fife's passion for innovation and entrepreneurship. He has spent the last few years researching David Fife and Red Fife Wheat. In the past 25 years, there has been a renewed interest in Red Fife Wheat by artisan bakers and organic farmers. Gary has been instrumental in contacting several of the key people involved in this Red Fife revival.    
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